Lord of Water Some Heavy Dudes

Story of Insane Waves

Chapter - 11 - Some Heavy Dudes

“Nice!”

“Fricken badass waves down the Northy. Did you see that?” looking down towards the Northern end of the beach as we both carried our boards under our arms in an eager trot.

Jimmy is just the best guy to be with when heading in for a surf. He get’s me so hyped that I just about step out of my body in exhilaration and anticipation of the insane waves that we are about to head into.

“Man! Did you see that?” Jimmy called as some guy smashed the living daylights off of the top of a huge left hand peak. 

“Yeh! Mate, there are a few guys down there. Looks like a little hustling today.” I uttered back.

“Let’s get out there!” Jimmy called and started running for the shoreline, spearing out into the water, skimming about twelve meters out off the short before he slowed up to paddle speed. 

“Nice entry!” I thought to myself just as he slipped into the rip and started charging towards the outside break.

When I caught up, I paddled out to find Jimmy sitting a little uncomfortable, squeezed out by some pretty heavy looking dudes. 

“Oh great. Here comes his f… face friend.” nne of them spoke easily loud enough to be heard and half of their crew gave a pretty intense stare right into me.

“Man! Can you feel that vibration Jimmy? Some pretty heavy protest coming out of that crew mate.”

Jimmy just looked at me and I could see that his adrenaline was hitting about 10 plus on the richter scale.

“Let’s surf mate.” I said as I paddles past Jimmy and sat in close enough to let them take their turn, but then step in right as they paddled into their first waves.

Jimmy paddles in beside me and I tilted just enough to let him come inside me for first turn before me. He had that look in his eye that I knew so well and was very experienced with when it came to hustling waves.

The water out the back darkened as the first sets started rolling in. About four to five nice lines with a couple of fat ones right in the middle. 

The first dude paddles in deep and took off in the perfect spot to drop into the middle of the face and take a big bottom turn then carving off the top with a huge spray bursting up in the air. 

Second dude the same, but the guy who looked like the leader chose the biggest of the set and nobody even hinted at trying to drop in. 

Me and Jimmy just sat there and let the set pass. Then comfortably paddled into the spot just over the impact zone. The heavy dudes came paddling straight back to the spot and pushed right inside of us. 

The main dude paddled in behind and then squeezed right into the middle of them, with me and Jimmy now on the outside. Totally stole our spots.

I looked right at him until he lifted his head and looked back at me. I comfortably said “We don’t do that here bro! At the Northy everyone takes their turn no matter who they are.”

“Is that right?" he said and they all started laughing. 

Me and Jimmy just sat cool and waited for the next set to start rolling in. The water grew dark out the back again and a nice thick set of waves started to lurk just out of sight.

“Looks like it’s not your day boys!” He called out and started to paddle and adjust into position for a deep take off. 

“I’ve got this one Jimmy!” I said and paddled right in close behind him. I could sense Jimmy not far behind and the other dudes all scrambled and split off as they hussled for the first waves. There was one big set right in the middle and this was my wave. The main dude obviously through that it was his. 

I just pressed right in behind him and knew exactly where I needed to be to get the best take off. Jimmy slid in real quick and snatched the one just before it. Two of the dudes tried to drop in on him but Jimmy was on his feet and flipping the board of the first dude in front of him, ever so gently lifting him up into the full lip of the barrel as he tangled into the face sucking him right up and over the top of Jimmy’s head as he landed ever so gently in the middle of the barrel. 

The second dude tried to collapse the barrel down on him, but Jimmy just skipped and floated over the foam ball and then back doored into the barrel again as it dropped cleanly over his head. 

From behind I could see that so well known line of Jimmy’s fins slicing through the middle of the tube ride. I couldn’t help but to hoot just enough to put the head dude in front of me on edge. 

We both paddled straight into the middle of the peak and the dude turned and started to paddle in. I just gave a smug little smile and the water somehow boiled in under him, rumbling his board sideways. 

I slipped right into the spot I was looking for and could sense him cursing as the lip pulled him up and over the falls, hard and heavy into the sand bank. I don’t think he has taken a wipeout like that for a long time from the way I saw him smashing those first waves we saw him on.

I eased into the most familiar pose and just chilled as the water of the barrel hugged all around me. This is home. This is when I am happy. 

I could sensed a few bodies scrambling to dive under the impact of the wave as it drew out in front of me. It didn’t make any difference. This is the closest I can possibly get to being me on this crazy planet. Doesn’t matter what else is going on around me.

The full chamber of the barrel pressured up and blew out all around me as I was engulfed in the famous Northy Spit, ejecting me out and onto the clean face for even more carving pleasure.

Jimmy turned off just in front of me and was already laughing his head off as I turned closer and closer to meat up as I skipped off the top of the closing out wave.

"That was fu…. awesome mate. No idea what’s gonna happen now. I think that we may have worn out our welcome.” he chuckled. “But hey, this is our break!”

"That’s for sure Jimmy. Stay close alright.”

I paddled back to the side just completely comfortable to take our turn now that we have had our waves. 

The dudes were like spraying the F word all over the place. The main dude looking right at me with evil intentions and pounding his fist into his palm clearly show what he wanted to do to me. I paddled in close enough as this was gonna get out of control. We were either going to solve it now or this surfing session was going to turn into a battlefield.

“You’re dead dude. You are so completely dead. Do you hear me?” 

The main dude fully revved up and I could feel the vibration of hatred humming like a beehive through the air. 

“I tell you what.” I spoke as calmly as I could. “We have two choices. We either go into the beach and sort it out now between us both or we just surf. What’s it going to be?”

With his half a dozen super heavy dudes packed all around him, I knew the answer would be pretty inevitable. The main dude looked right at me and said, “Right now!” and paddled into a smaller wave to head to the shore. Three of the dudes followed him with the other three moving towards us like there were trying to herd us in.

“Ok Jimmy!” I said as I started padding in as well. “Come along just to keep an eye on my back.

I landed up on the beach just a bit away from this super revved up and angry dude ready to smash the living daylights out of me that is for sure. I ducked up the beach just enough to set my board in the sand and hopefully keep an eye on it. 

I wedged the board into the sand, fins up and turned to walk into the confrontation that I was not going to avoid in any way. The main dude standing half stanzed up like Bruce Lee and gave me the “Come on Mother F…..!”

About twelve metres in and Jimmy gave me the call, “On your left Shane!”

One of his thugs decided to make a hero out of himself and come at me from the side. “Real Brave!”

Taking the biggest and dumbest swing at my head, I just dropped my knees, sunk a single extended pointer knuckle right in between his bottom two ribs. I kept the structure up through my arm as straight as possible and drove the point of the knuckle straight in between this soft spot. 

He let out a whale and deflated into a pitiful moan as he fell to the sand and lay completely useless like a washed up jellyfish. I turned to the main dude again and with his attention half on me and half on this dumb moaning thug laying on the sand, moaning still, he was way too proud to back down. 

I looked right at him now only several metres away and asked him clearly, “Where are you now?”

He looked startled for a second and then again I asked him “Where are you now?”

This very heavy dude stopped dead in his tracks and looked like he had rolled right back into his mind. 

I asked him again, “Where are you now?”

He couldn’t help it and tears started to roll down his face. 

“What the fuck are you trying to do to me man?” he said as he was barely able to hold the shake in his voice steady.

“I just really would like to know.” I told him and then asked again. “Where are you now?”

That was it. He lost it and sat down on the sand and then started to sob heavily. 

All of the other heavy dudes all looked puzzled at each other and then started to step in close, but looking very uncertain indeed.

I held up my palm in front of them all and they completely duplicated my intention to stay back.

I walked up even closer and told him “I am just going to sit down beside you right here. It's ok alright! You take your time. You talk when you’re ready.”

Jimmy was now with the bunch of heavy dudes and was shaking hands with one of them. He had them under control and I knew that he would keep them away until we were ready. 

Two of them went over to give that poor thug still screwing up his face with the pain in his ribs. He would not be surfing for a few days that’s for sure.

The main dude calmed down and looked around, seeming to orient himself as to where he actually was. 

“What happened?" I asked him. And he still sat silent for a few more minutes, calming more and more as the brief time passed.

“Man! I’m really sorry bro. I have got no idea what got into me. This is one of the most stupid situations that I have ever found myself involved in. But I think that we have just been walking all over people wherever we go. What are we doing?”

“Hey! It’s ok man. I can see that you’ve got a good heart mate. And you can surf dude. We could see you from way up the track.” 

I tried to keep it as friendly as possible.

“I’m Max mate. What’s your name?” He said as he reached out with his arm to shake hands.

“Shane, Max. And my mate over there is Jimmy."

“Just give me a minute more Shane. I just have to gather myself before I pick myself up and face the boys.”

“There gonna be fine Max. But take your time.” Max stood up and just started to chuckle and then laugh louder and louder in warm and friendly hysterics.

“Mate. I feel like I just woke up for the first time in my life. What the f… did you do to me?”

“I don’t know Max. It just seemed like the obvious thing to ask you.”

“Yep! It was spot on. I have no idea where I have been all my life. What have I been doing?”

“Like I said Max, good to meet you. Can we get back in the surf now?”

We shook hands again and then I met all of the lads. We all spend a crazy day smashing the living daylights out of the Northy, wave after wave after wave.

Jimmy set up some Go Pro’s and some amazing footage was taken for all.

This was a good day and some great new friends.

Even the bro with the busted rib had a smile on his face. I am pretty sure that he got some great shots with the big zoom lens Jimmy set him up with.

"That was cool!” was all that Jimmy had to say to me at the end of the day as he turned to head down the lane back to his place with his board under his arms and camera pack in the other. 

He turned around and asked “What did you say to him mate. That was mad!”

“I saw a *Volunteer Minister at the bush fires helping out a firefighter. He was giving him an assist and I heard him asking the same question. It was so cool. The Firee just calmed right down and was back into it a few minutes later fighting the fire.”

“Not even sure it I got it right. But it seemed to work pretty good hey!”

“It was Awesome!” Said Jimmy. “Tell me more about it tomorrow. I’m smashed and going to bed. That was a mad day.”

To find the correct Volunteer Minister Assist Technology, follow this link.

• See: http://www.volunteerministers.org/training/assists/overview.html

Lord of Water Story of Insane Waves

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