Lord of Water The Surfing Session

Surfing Session Stories

Chapter 25 - The Surfing Session

Jimmy and I once again took a week off to surf the Northy. It had been a long road bringing him back. But with him coming out of hospital with a clean bill and then David taking over to bring him back to life, he actually looked and acted the same old crazy Jimmy that was my best mate for life.

Both now out of school, we decided to take film and production correspondence with the LA Arts School and work through it at our own leisure. Money was not a problem, but study and the aim at staying professional was a discipline we needed to keep in.

Except for when the Northy is going off that is.

I'd been working on this new manoeuvre for about a year now. I’d almost pulled it off a few times, but just hadn’t really decided it was possible yet. It was a bit like the first time I pulled off a backhand arial 360, I didn’t know if I could do it until I just did it. But the only difference being I had seen other guys do it first.

Slayer was the master and he just seemed to get better and better each year. The young guys could not touch him.

I’d watch him on YouTube for hours totally in awe of his looseness and ability to just land on his feet from anything.

He sometimes left me wondering whether or not I am the true Lord of Water. But this manoeuvre I had not seen anyone even attempt.

We were paddling out and I gave Jimmy a cheeky smile as I paddled past him.

“Gonna hustle you today mate. Got a feeling I am gonna pull off something new!!”

“Bring it on Wax Head!” Called Jimmy. "Whatever you want to do."

Jimmy snuck in a nice little left hander that he stole right from under me and came charging off the back as it closed out about 50 yards further in. 

This was the one I was waiting for. A nice fat wedge of a wave stood up in the middle of a medium sized set and I could just see exactly how the lip was going to fall.

I took off super late and free fell to the bottom of the clean face. I dug in deep on the bottom turn and drove straight up vertical on the face of the wave. As the lip barrelled over, I hit the top, right on the curl. The only way to go was either straight up and arial, or push that lip hard as I had done so many times before.

But this was the exact position I had dreamed of and the only way to hit it was with 100% commitment. 

I pierced the top of the lip and sailed vertical about four metres way up and over as it barrelled so typically for the Northy. I sat completely vertical way up above the barrel. My feet directly above me with the board seated on top of them.  I looked down upon the clear blue cylinder pulling tons of water over the falls below me as I still slowly sailed upwards.

I bent my knees and took either side of the board. Crouched tight and rails in hand. The water was pulling so fast over the barrel that I thought for a moment that it would just grasp and drive me hard into the sand bank below. 

But I could see the motion. It is a clean flow of energy and this was the point of entry that I had imagined to be in place. If I could think it, I could do it and BOOM, I punched straight through the top of the barrel like a harpoon. Punched straight through the ceiling of this typical and epic Northy barrel. Then just stood up straight as my board settle onto the face of the wave, deep back in the barrel and turned ever so slightly to enjoy the glass house ride that I had been so familiar with all the years of my surfing life.

My favourite place on this whole planet.

The cool mist of the pipeline spit shimmered all over me as I blasted out of the last rounded section.

My momentum was so smooth and flowing that I felt I could just surf right on out the back again without even paddling.

I glided in and relaxed back onto my board, right next to Jimmy. We both paddled together smiling and not saying a word.

“I saw every little bit of that you fricken freak of water you. That was totally awesome dude.” He screamed as he dropped into another massive left of the Northy.

Lord of Water Surfing Session Stories

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