Lord of Water The Surf is Smashing

An Adrenaline Pumping Surfing Story

Chapter 2 - The Surf is Smashing

The surf was absolutely insane and I was just waiting for dad to drive off before I changed into my wetsuit and off with this ridiculous school uniform.

Good! He’s out of here. Jimmy stuck his head through the window. “Come on Shanee Boy. 6 foot barrels up the North end. Time to get some real lessons of life.”

It was just a totally reckless day. Smashing wave after wave and laughing at Jimmy’s insane expressions as he popped barrels all day long.

"How’s school treating you Shane?” Jimmy asked as we sat between sets.

“It’s just out of control Jimmy. You should see the line up of zombies that they have now. Twice a day, all popping their little cup full of psych drugs and then off they all go for the rest of the day in some sort of a transed out robotic state.”

Easy for the teachers to control, but man! You remember Jenna and Shaye and Johnie. They are totally gone now. Why have they set up this system that is so blatantly destroying lives.

“That’s simple Shane.” Jimmy responded. “Just follow the money mate. It has nothing to do with making anyone “better” it is just for the money.”

“It’s runs all the way up from the school getting extra funding for each kid they have popping their pills and every single parasite up the line to Big Pharma.

Why are they pushing degrees in Psych so heavily now on the radio and career promo. They are building a fricken army."

“Your right Jimmy. They have gone for me a few times. But Dad is just too strong. He said the day they try to force me on is the day we leave town. I’ve only got a year left anyway, I’m gonna smash Uni and just keep driving Mr Crappy Lord through the roof. Got a few other cool ideas as well.

“Why wouldn’t you?” Said Jimmy. “You’ve got like 28 Million YouTube Subscribers now. How much are you making a month dude? 

“Heaps Jimmy” But we are just farming it into the trust at the moment. Getting ready for the big setup that we are going for. So easy to spend and blow it all and you never know if you are suddenly going to get your account suspended or something right?”

“They won’t suspend your account bro. There will be a riot mate. Mr Crappy Lord is the legend of the new millennium. Your it. No one’s ever gonna take you down.”

“Wo! Jimmy. Out the back.”

Jimmy didn’t even look, he just paddled hard and we both jostled for poll position. 

“Bring it on Water Boy!” Cried Jimmy as he dropped in deep to a monster barrel. Right behind it was an even fatter one and I paddled as hard as I could to get the deepest take off possible.

Tracking right along the line behind Jimmy, I could sense him racing out cleanly in front of me. Through the barrel I was catching glimpses of spray smashing off the back of the wave as Jimmy now worked the wall of his wave running closer to the shore. 

There it is! Jimmy pushed clean out off the top of the wave and drifted a good eight to ten metres before he slipped back into the top of the closing out cylinder top.

As I took my turn, I just about landed right on top of him while he screamed and hollered away at the top of his voice.

“This is freedom Shane. These waves have been pumping through here for god knows how many centuries, fricken millennia mate. You know, there is not a sole on the beach and here we are surfing on the energy waves of the physical universe. Talk about freedom of expression.”

“Your right Jimmy! This is freedom and it is our right to play. I think that a law needs to me passed. When the surf is on, then it is books down. I mean, how else are we going to produce the best surfers on the planet if we are stuck in school all day trying not to fall asleep while Mrs Hoy Bag rambles on at the white board.”

"Hallelujah Shane!” Cried Jimmy. "We can name it “Lord of Water Day!”"

“Oh Yeh! Lord of Water Day. But we can’t have it just one day of the year like the Queens fricken birthday or something. It’s gotta be a law. 

“By the powers vested in me, may all and any teachers that try to stop any free spirit from surfing when the NE Swell is hammering down, be cast down with Bolts of Lightning. May the Lord of Water say it be so.”

Ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha!!!!!!

"You should be fricken president Shane. Prime Minister at least.”

“Nah! I think I’ve got a bigger game.”

I big fat set came rolling in and I paddled hard to take the thickest one. Jimmy took a break and just sat to the side and screamed me in deeper on the biggest one. I could never get enough of this. Turning into barrels like this is like the total satisfaction but the greatest hunger for more all at the same time. 

A hunger I have no intention of ever satisfying.

I paddle back out beside Jimmy and he still was giggle from deep in his belly

“Man! How do you do that?” Jimmy asked.

“Do what Jimmy”

“You know! you always drop so deep and impossible and then the water just opens up around you. It is like you are controlling it with your hands or thoughts or something.”

“I don’t know Jimmy. I thought everyone does that. Don’t you?”

“You look like a fricken wizard of water or something. I was lying in bed thinking about it the other night ……"

Jimmy was so engrossed in what I was about to say that he totally missed the  timing of the sets rolling in behind him. I just laughed and screamed “Best Ones Mine Boofhead. Again!!!!”

We went on like this all day. I even forgot all about Dad and rocked up home after he was already in after a day’s work He just looked at me and smiled with that little cheeky nod of the head that he does when he knows it’s not time to be a “Dad”. 

Come on Dad. It’s going off today. Grab your board. We haven't been for a paddle together for heaps.

Dad made me a sandwich and drink and then walked out to get his board. 

“Your the best dad!”

We spent the afternoon dropping in on each other, jumping on each other’s boards and generally trying to drown each other. This guy was my mentor and guide of life. He never ever lost his temper with me but I also knew that he was never to be crossed. I just wouldn’t dare.

The time he spent with me tutoring me through my grades and keeping me at the top of the state was the only protection that I had against a system going so out of control. Dad had big buddies in the right places. But he also made sure that I applied my study skills and kept at the front of the exam standard no matter what. 

My grades were my protection and I am sure even though the psychs would love to get their hands on me and drug the talent right out of me, while dad was walking this planet, it was never going to happen.

Lord of Water Surfing Story

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